Day 10

13 04 2007

Another day.

I woke up pretty early today. Waking up early doesn’t usually happen anymore, even though I wish it would. Anyways, the reason I woke up so early was to go surfing. My friend Will invited me to go surfing with his friends Tracy and Jenny and himself, so we headed down to Pales Verdes.

We arrived a little earlier, and the rental shop wasn’t open, so we went to this little beach joint for food. I had a strawberry, banana, watermelon, honeydew shake… it was pretty amazing after not eating breakfast. After that we walked down to the shop and we got out boards (I already had my wetsuit) and dressed up and went down to the beach. The swells were pretty big today, probably 4-6 feet (+/-). I’m just starting, so today, I couldn’t even get past the break zone. I felt like a pansy, being the only surfer who wasn’t out really far. Anyways, I caught waves, and that’s what counts, not how far I went, haha. It may look easy, but paddling is killer @_@

After we finished, we returned our boards to the shop, drove back to UCLA and had some lunch.

That was my day so far. Pretty awesome.

Later Days,

-Kev

surf-zone-diagram.gif

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